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TRAXNYCDiamond District · New York
A gold Miami Cuban link chain laid flat on black leather beside a ruler
Chain guide

The Chain Atlas: Ten Gold Chain Styles, Side by Side

Ten gold chain styles, photographed the same way at the store on 47th Street: what each one is, what the people of 47th Street say about it, and the pieces in our case now.

TraxNYC Magazine
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Ten gold chain styles, each photographed the same way: flat on black leather, under the same light, at the TraxNYC store on 47th Street. For each one: what it is, what the people of 47th Street told us about it, and the pieces in our case now.

Ten gold chain styles side by side on black leather: Miami Cuban, rope, Franco, curb, Figaro, box, anchor, Byzantine, herringbone and moon cut
All ten, side by side. Photographs by Eamon at the TraxNYC store on 47th Street.

Jump to: Miami Cuban · Rope · Franco · Curb · Figaro · Box · Anchor · Byzantine · Herringbone · Moon cut

“Number one, Miami Cuban. Number two, rope chain. Number three, Franco. Always. These are the classics.”Umid, gold buyer, TraxNYC

Miami Cuban

A gold Miami Cuban link chain laid flat on black leather beside a ruler

Thick, rounded links woven tight, so the chain lies flat and heavy on the neck. It usually closes with a box clasp.

“The most popular chain has been, and probably will always be, the Miami Cuban chain, I would say.”Umid, gold buyer, TraxNYC
“Now I think it's Cuban. Miami Cubans.”Henry Navi, on the chain everyone wants today

More Cuban links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Rope

A gold rope chain laid flat on black leather beside a ruler

Small links twisted around each other, so the chain looks like a braided rope and catches the light from every side.

“Mostly it was the rope chain.”Henry Navi, on the chain everyone wanted when he started, 46 years ago

More rope links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Franco

A gold Franco chain laid flat on black leather

V-shaped links packed on four sides, so the chain is square, stiff and hard to kink.

“But still, ropes and Francos are evergreen. Can't go wrong.”Ankur, gold chain wholesaler

More Franco links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Curb

A gold curb chain laid flat on black leather

Flat links twisted so each one lies against the next. A Miami Cuban is a curb made thicker and tighter.

“When I started, the curb chain was the go-to chain: a solid curb chain, 3, 4, 5 millimeter gauge, 10 and 14K.”Ankur, on the chain everyone wanted when he started

More curb links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Figaro

A gold Figaro chain laid flat on black leather beside a ruler

A rhythm of short flat links broken by one long link, most often three short to one long.

More Figaro links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Box

A gold box chain laid flat on black leather

Square links joined edge to edge, so the chain reads as a smooth, square tube. Clean on its own, and a classic under a pendant.

More box links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Anchor

A gold anchor link chain laid flat on black leather

Oval links joined one through the next, the way an anchor chain is built. When each link also has a bar across its middle, the chain is called a mariner.

More anchor links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Byzantine

A gold Byzantine chain laid flat on black leather

Small links folded into each other in a woven, three-dimensional pattern, so the chain looks textured from every angle.

More Byzantine links, made to order: the Chain Book.

Herringbone

A gold herringbone chain laid flat on black leather beside a ruler

Flat, slanted links laid side by side, so the chain lies like a ribbon of gold. It shines flat, and it kinks if it is bent or folded, so it is kept laid flat.

We do not list a herringbone chain on the site right now: read what a herringbone chain is, and why it kinks. To ask the store about one, call or text 212-872-9692.

Moon cut

A gold moon cut bead chain laid flat on black leather

Round gold beads with faceted cuts that flash in the light: a bead chain, dressed up.

Or your own

Renato, who sets stones on 47th Street, says buyers now want a chain of their own design:

“They want chains that are more personalized: everyone invents their own chain model now.”Renato, setter, ten years on 47th Street (translated from Spanish)

See custom chains, or read Renato's interview.

Before you pick one

Send this interview to a friend WhatsApp

Before you buy

The chains in this story, and the guides from the store

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Chat with a jeweler now, or call or text 212-872-9692. Our team texts back 10 AM to 10 PM ET; later texts are answered the next day. Or see it in person at 64 W 47th Street.

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