SearchHerringbone chains: what they are, why they kink, and the flat links we make
From the jewelry store at TraxNYC, 47th Street.
The short answer
- A herringbone gold chain is flat. Rows of short, slanted links lie on the neck like a ribbon.
- It kinks. Its links are flat and pressed tight, so a sharp bend or a pendant's bail can crease them.
- It is not in our case today. The nearest link we make is the curb, and the Miami Cuban lies flat too.
Looking for a flat chain? Talk to a personal jeweler: call or text 212-872-9692, seven days.
What is a herringbone chain?
A herringbone chain is a flat gold chain made of short, slanted links laid edge to edge in rows. The name comes from the herringbone pattern: the rows look like the bones of a herring.
Why a flat herringbone chain kinks
The thing that makes it lie flat is the thing that makes it crease. Each link is a thin, flat piece pressed tight against the next, with no room to roll.
A sharp bend, from a tangle or a snag, folds the links along a line. In the trade's experience, a crease in a herringbone does not fully press out.
For the same reason it does not carry a pendant well. A bail is a steady bend at one point of the chain, and a flat link folds where it is bent.
If you already own one: hang it or lay it flat, never balled in a pouch, and take it off to sleep and to work out. To wash it, follow how to clean a gold chain.
Herringbone chain vs. the links we make
| The chain | What the link is | Carries a pendant |
|---|---|---|
| Herringbone | Short slanted links, edge to edge. Flat as a ribbon. | Not well. A bail can crease it. |
| Curb: mostly solid | A twisted, flattened oval. The twist lets it lie flat. | Yes, solid, by width. |
| Miami Cuban: solid and hollow | A curb made rounder and tighter. Lies flat on the neck. | Yes, solid, by width. A thin hollow one kinks. |
| Franco: solid and hollow | A curb woven on four sides, as deep as it is wide. Not flat. | Yes, solid, by width. |
At 3 mm the Miami Cuban carries about two and a half times the curb's gold per inch, and the Franco about four times.
Grams per inch, 14K solid
The gold is solid either way; solid or hollow names the build, and a hollow build at the same width weighs less.
Inside a Cuban link. We cut a gold Miami Cuban chain apart. 50 million views on YouTube, read September 26, 2026.
The flat links buyers chose most from our case over the last 90 days, by sales, read September 26, 2026:
Our chain styles guide names the chains that lie flat. More of our chains are in men's gold chains.
★★★★★
“Beautiful chain , just the right width. Ken , my salesperson is solid . 💯💯💯”
★★★★★
“As always great quality and they definitely always deliver what they show you size. Weight clarity, quality, it's all there.”
★★★★★
“My first order from Trax Nyc chain is absolutely beautiful i couldn't be more happier.”
★★★★★
“First ever gold chain to start my collection traxs delivered me a stunningly beautiful chain every thing was packaged safely and arrived fast…”
A few of the five-star reviews buyers left on our listings, chosen by us, quoted as written and trimmed only for length.
Talk to a personal jeweler
Want a flat chain that holds its shape? Ask us which link and width.
Our personal jewelers on 47th Street answer by phone and text seven days. Every chain is weighed, stamp-checked and appraised in the store.
Questions buyers ask about herringbone chains
What does a herringbone necklace look like?
A smooth band of gold. The links sit flat and tight, with no gaps, so it reflects the light as one surface; up close you see the slanted rows. A thin one looks like a fine necklace, a wide one like a gold collar.
Are herringbone chains in style?
That is yours to judge; we do not claim a trend we cannot measure. What we can tell you is how it wears: flat, so it shows cleanly with an open shirt and sits under a buttoned one without a bump.
Do men wear herringbone chains?
Yes. It is the same chain on a man or a woman; the width and the length set the look. In 18K it is a deeper yellow than 14K, and softer, so it creases more easily.
Why are herringbone chains so expensive?
A gold chain's price follows its grams and its making. The grams follow the karat, the width and the length; the metal part moves with the day's gold price. In the trade's experience a herringbone takes more making than an open link: many short flat links laid tight, edge to edge.
How to tell if a herringbone chain is real?
Look for the karat stamp, usually near the clasp:
| Stamp | Or its number |
|---|---|
| 10K | 417 |
| 14K | 585 |
| 18K | 750 |
A magnet should not pull on gold. A pull points to a steel core, though a clasp's steel spring can pull on a real chain, and a magnet that does not pull proves nothing by itself. A jeweler can test the karat and weigh it.
Are herringbone chains worth it?
For the right wearer, yes: someone who wants a flat chain worn alone, close to the neck, taken off at night and stored flat. If you want a pendant on it, a solid curb or Miami Cuban wide enough to carry it is the chain we would hand you.
We have no herringbone in the case today, so this is a jeweler's answer, not a sales one.
Keep reading
More answers from the store: all TraxNYC buyer's guides.
Not sure which flat chain? Call or text 212-872-9692 with the width and length you have in mind, or come to the store at 64 W 47th St, Booth F-1, on 47th Street since 2004.
