SearchDiamond shapes: every cut, pictured on our rings, and what each shape does
From the counter at TraxNYC, 47th Street.
The short answer
- Ten shapes cover almost every engagement ring: round, oval, emerald, marquise, pear, cushion, radiant, princess, asscher and heart.
- Long shapes look biggest. Marquise, pear and oval face up larger than a round of the same carat.
- Brilliant cuts sparkle; step cuts flash. Emerald and asscher show broad flashes and more of what is inside the stone.
- Points need protection. A marquise, pear, princess or heart wants a prong over each tip or corner.
Between two shapes? Talk to a personal jeweler: call 212-872-9692 or text us, seven days.
Ten diamond shapes, each on one of our engagement rings
Shape is the outline of the diamond seen from above: a choice of taste, not a grade. Here is what each one does on the hand, and what to check before you buy.
The diamond shapes, one by one
Round brilliant
The circle, cut with 57 or 58 facets to return as much light as a diamond can. It hides small inclusions and a touch of color well, and it suits any hand and any band. See round engagement rings.
Oval
A round stretched long, faceted as a brilliant. It faces up larger than a round of the same weight and lengthens the finger. Some ovals show a bow-tie, a dark band across the middle, so judge it on video. See oval engagement rings.
Emerald cut
A rectangle with cut corners and long step facets, like stairs. It flashes in broad planes instead of sparkling and shows what is inside, so buy the clarity a grade higher than for a round. See emerald engagement rings.
Marquise
Long, with a point at each end: of all the shapes it looks the largest for its weight. Each tip wants a prong over it, and it can show a bow-tie too. See marquise engagement rings.
Pear
A teardrop, usually worn with the point toward the fingertip, which lengthens the hand. It faces up large for its weight and wants a prong over the point. See pear engagement rings.
Cushion
A square or rectangle with rounded corners, like a pillow, faceted as a brilliant. It can face up a little smaller than a round of the same weight. Our case holds the antique style too: an old mine cut cushion. See cushion engagement rings.
Radiant cut
The outline of an emerald cut with the facets of a brilliant: it sparkles close to a round, hides inclusions better than a step cut, and its cut corners resist chipping. See radiant engagement rings.
Princess cut
A square with sharp corners, faceted as a brilliant. It faces up a little smaller than a round of the same weight, and its four corners want prongs. See princess engagement rings.
Asscher cut
A square emerald cut: cut corners, and step facets that look like stairs going down into the stone. It shows clarity plainly. Asschers are few in our case, so ask the desk.
Heart
A brilliant cut to the outline of a heart, with a cleft at the top. The two halves should match, and it reads most clearly at about half a carat and up.
How big each shape looks at 1 carat
Carat is weight, not size, and each shape spreads it differently. For other weights, see our diamond size chart.
| Shape | A 1 carat, face up, about | On the hand |
|---|---|---|
| Round | 6.5 mm across | The baseline |
| Oval | 8 by 6 mm | Looks larger |
| Emerald | 7 by 5 mm | Long lines |
| Marquise | 10.5 by 5 mm | Looks the largest |
| Pear | 8.5 by 5.5 mm | Looks larger |
| Cushion | 5.5 mm square | A little smaller |
| Radiant | 6.5 by 5.5 mm | About even |
| Princess | 5.5 mm square | A little smaller |
| Asscher | 5.5 mm square | Compact |
| Heart | 6.5 mm across | About even |
The trade's usual sizes for a well-cut 1 carat; cut depth moves every figure. The listing or the desk has a given stone's millimeters.
Lab-grown diamond or natural diamond, shape by shape
Both are diamond. Grade for grade, a lab-grown diamond costs a fraction of a natural one. In our case, read September 28, 2026, about six in ten of the natural center stones on our engagement rings that name a shape are rounds, and most of our rounds are under 2 carats. The long and step shapes are mostly lab-grown, most of them 2 carats or more. How the two compare: lab-grown diamond or natural diamond.
From the counter
“Choose lab-grown diamonds if you want the look, you do not mind wearing lab-grown, and you would rather put your money into gold or other gems. Choose natural diamonds if the piece is meant to be passed down to someone you love, because that question always comes up.”
How to choose a shape
- Start with her hands. Oval, marquise and pear lengthen a short finger; a round or cushion suits any hand.
- Think about her day. A marquise, pear, princess or heart has points that need prongs; a round, oval, cushion or emerald has none to catch.
- Check the band. A pear or marquise can leave a gap beside a straight band; a curved band closes it.
- See it move. From our showroom page: "Every stone is shown in person or on video before you decide."
Every shape we carry is on women's engagement rings; carat, grades, setting and size are in how to choose an engagement ring.
Talk to a personal jeweler
Put two shapes side by side before you choose.
Our personal jewelers on 47th Street answer by phone and text seven days.
Questions about diamond shapes
What are the different diamond shapes?
Round, oval, emerald, marquise, pear, cushion, radiant, princess, asscher and heart. Round is the only circle; the trade calls every other outline a fancy shape. The baguette, a long narrow step cut, mostly serves as a side stone.
Which diamond shape looks the biggest?
The marquise, with the oval and the pear close behind: long shapes spread their weight across the finger. A cushion or a princess can face up a little smaller than a round of the same carat.
Which diamond shape sparkles the most?
The round brilliant, cut for exactly that. Emerald and asscher are step cuts: they flash in broad planes rather than sparkle, and they show inclusions most openly.
Is diamond shape the same as diamond cut?
No. Shape is the outline; cut is how well the stone was faceted, one of the 4 C's. Our 4 C's guide covers cut.
Keep reading
More answers from the counter: all TraxNYC buyer's guides.
Come to 47th Street, or ask the desk
The showroom is at 64 W 47th St, Booth F-1, in New York's Diamond District, on 47th Street since 2004. Hours are Monday to Friday 11 am to 6 pm ET, and Saturday and Sunday 12 pm to 4 pm ET; around a holiday, text first.
Come see two shapes side by side under one light. Text or call 212-872-9692, or write to sale@traxnyc.com. Before you visit, read our showroom page.