SearchRolex models explained: the lines, the sizes, the bracelets, and which Rolex to buy first
From the counter at TraxNYC, 47th Street.
The short answer
- Rolex makes two kinds of watch: the classic models, led by the Datejust and the Day-Date, and the professional models, led by the Submariner and the GMT-Master II.
- The size is the case across, crown not counted, from 26 mm on the older ladies' Datejust to 50 mm on the Deepsea Challenge.
- Three bracelets matter: the Oyster, three flat links; the Jubilee, five smaller links; the President, three rounded links, gold or platinum only.
- A first Rolex: a Datejust for one watch that does everything, a Submariner or GMT-Master II for sport, a Day-Date if it has to be gold. Watches are final sale, so settle the size first.
Choosing between two sizes? Text us or call 212-872-9692. Our team texts back 10 AM to 10 PM ET; later texts are answered the next day.
Rolex Datejust Watches
All Rolex Datejust watches
The Rolex lines we list, in one table
| Line | What it is | Case sizes | Bracelet |
|---|---|---|---|
| Datejust | The date under a magnifier at 3 o'clock | 28, 31, 36, 41 mm; 26 on older ladies' models | Jubilee, Oyster or President |
| Day-Date | The day spelled out, and the date; gold or platinum only | 36, 40 mm | President |
| Oyster Perpetual | Time only | 28 to 41 mm | Oyster |
| Sky-Dweller | A second time zone and an annual calendar | 42 mm | Oyster, Jubilee or Oysterflex |
| Land-Dweller | A new line, from 2025 | 36, 40 mm | Its own flat bracelet |
| Submariner | The dive watch | 41 mm; 40 before 2020 | Oyster |
| GMT-Master II | A second time zone on a 24-hour bezel | 40 mm | Oyster or Jubilee |
| Cosmograph Daytona | The chronograph | 40 mm | Oyster or Oysterflex |
| Yacht-Master | The sailing watch | 37 to 42 mm; the II, 44 mm | Oyster or Oysterflex |
| Sea-Dweller and Deepsea | The deep divers | 43, 44 mm; the Challenge, 50 | Oyster |
| Explorer | Time only, the 3-6-9 dial | 36, 40 mm | Oyster |
The current catalog; older references came in other sizes. Not on our site today: the Explorer II, the Air-King and the Perpetual 1908.
What we list, by line
Every Rolex on our site is listed pre-owned, with years from 1978 to 2026. More than half are Datejusts; then come the GMT-Master II, the Submariner, the Day-Date and the Sky-Dweller, and a few of each of the rest. A little under half are steel, about two in five two-tone steel and gold, about one in eight solid 18K gold (read September 28, 2026). Men's Datejusts and women's Rolex watches have their own pages; every Rolex we list is on our Rolex page.
Sizes: what the millimeters mean on a wrist
A 36 reads classic, and smaller than the number sounds; 40 to 42 mm is today's men's size; 26 to 31 mm are the ladies' and midsize cases.
Rolex case sizes, in millimeters
Watches are final sale under our refund policy, so choose the size before you pay: ask the desk for a video of the watch on a wrist, or try two sizes at the showroom.
Bracelets and metals
Oyster: three broad, flat links, the sport bracelet. Jubilee: five smaller links, dressier and more supple, made for the Datejust; about four in five of our Datejusts are on one. President: three rounded links, made for the Day-Date, in gold or platinum only; nearly every Day-Date we list is on one. Oysterflex: metal blades inside black rubber, on the Yacht-Master and some gold Daytonas.
Oystersteel is Rolex's steel; Rolesor is steel and gold together, the two-tone; then 18K yellow, white and Everose gold, Rolex's rose gold, and platinum. The last digit of a modern reference names the metal; our serial and reference guide reads it digit by digit.
Which Rolex to buy first
One watch for everything: the Datejust. It goes from a suit to a T-shirt, it comes in four sizes and in steel, two-tone or gold, and it is most of what we list, so you can compare side by side.
A sport watch: the Submariner or the GMT-Master II. The Submariner is the classic dive watch; the GMT-Master II is for the traveler, with a second time zone.
If it has to be gold: the Day-Date, made only in gold or platinum, on the President. A smaller wrist, or a gift for her: the Datejust 31, the ladies' 26 and 28, or an Oyster Perpetual 31.
What sets the price is in buying a pre-owned Rolex; we print no prices here. The trade's names, Batman, Pepsi and Hulk among them, are in Rolex nicknames.
Four watches from our case, each live and in stock on September 28, 2026; each is one piece and may sell.
From the counter
“The jewelry business is about trust. You will not learn everything there is to know before you buy, so buy from someone who will still be around, and who treats you with dignity. I have seen customers start over with a new jeweler because they picked the one who fooled them best: the one who made them feel good at the counter and bad once they understood what they bought.”
Talk to the watch desk
Tell us your wrist and what you will wear it with.
Send a listing and ask for a video.
Questions about Rolex models
What are the main Rolex models?
Classic: the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, Day-Date, Sky-Dweller, Land-Dweller and the 1908. Professional: the Submariner, Sea-Dweller and Deepsea, GMT-Master II, Cosmograph Daytona, Yacht-Master, Explorer and Air-King.
What is the best Rolex to buy first?
For one watch that does everything, a Datejust, 36 or 41 mm, steel or two-tone; for sport, the Submariner or the GMT-Master II. Buy the one you will wear every day, in the size that fits, from someone who will still answer your questions after the sale.
What is the difference between the Datejust and the Day-Date?
The Datejust shows the date; the Day-Date adds the day of the week, spelled out across the top of the dial. The Datejust comes in steel, two-tone or gold; the Day-Date only in gold or platinum, on the President.
Are your Rolex watches new or pre-owned?
Every Rolex on our site is listed pre-owned. TraxNYC is an independent jeweler, not an authorized Rolex dealer. Each listing names the model and the metal, and most give the reference and the year.
Keep reading
More answers from the counter: all TraxNYC buyer's guides.
See two sizes side by side at 64 W 47th St, Booth F-1: Monday to Friday 11 am to 6 pm ET, weekends 12 pm to 4 pm ET. Text 212-872-9692 first and tell the desk which watch.
TraxNYC is an independent jeweler and is not affiliated with Rolex. Rolex and the model names are trademarks of Rolex.