Marquise Diamond Guide: Shape, Size and Price
by TraxNYC
A marquise diamond is the long, pointed brilliant: the shape that looks biggest for its weight. This guide covers the cut, millimeters per carat, the bow-tie, what moves the price, the settings and bands that work, and how we sell them from 64 W 47th St. For all ten shapes side by side, start with our diamond shapes overview.
What a marquise cut is
A marquise is a brilliant cut with an elongated outline and a point at each end. GIA puts its origin in France in the 1740s, with the legend that it was named for the Marquise de Pompadour at the court of Louis XV. The standard marquise brilliant carries 58 facets; depending on how the tips are finished you will see stones with 56 to 60. Some cutters use French tips, replacing the large bezel facet at each point with smaller star and upper-girdle facets for durability.
The number that defines a marquise is the length-to-width ratio. The classic outline is about twice as long as it is wide, a 2:1 ratio. Our desk buys between 1.85 and 2.10. Below 1.85 the stone reads short and wide; above 2.10 it reads long and narrow. Long, narrow marquises are harder to cut bright across the whole face, so our desk checks the ratio and the bow-tie together. Stones submitted to GIA mostly fall between 1.6:1 and 2.2:1.
Marquise carat to millimeters
Because the weight is spread into a long outline, a marquise shows more face-up area per carat than a round. These are approximate outlines for a 2:1 marquise of average depth; real stones vary by about half a millimeter either way, and we quote the actual measurements on every ring.
| Carat | Length x width | How it wears |
|---|---|---|
| 0.50 ct | 8.5 x 4 mm | Slim; a solitaire on a thin band, or a side stone |
| 1 ct | 10.5 x 5 mm | The standard solitaire center |
| 1.50 ct | 12 x 6 mm | Our best-selling marquise size over the past year |
| 2 ct | 13 x 6.5 mm | Stands on its own in a solitaire |
| 2.50 ct | 14 x 7 mm | Statement size; V-prongs at both tips |
| 3 ct | 15 x 7.5 mm | The full-length look; see the cathedral pavé ring below |
Weight also hides in depth. A well-cut marquise is typically 58 to 64 percent deep relative to its width; a deeper stone carries weight below the girdle and looks smaller than its carat suggests. Our marquise collection labels center weights in the title, 1 CT, 1.50 CT, 2 CT, 2.50 CT and 3 CT. Every shape is charted in our diamond size chart.
The bow-tie, and how we pick marquise stones
Nearly every marquise shows some bow-tie: a dark band across the width of the stone, centered on the table. GIA describes it as a shadow that resembles a bow-tie. A little of it adds contrast. The problem is a bow-tie so wide and dark that it stays black as you rock the stone.
A grading report lists the measurements and the ratio, but it does not say how dark the bow-tie is. So we judge each stone face-up:
- Tilt it under a daylight lamp. A good marquise flashes through the bow-tie zone as it moves; a poor one stays dark.
- Check the outline. The two points should line up on the long axis, the shoulders should match, and the wings should curve evenly.
- Keep the ratio in the 1.85 to 2.10 window unless you want a longer stone on purpose.
We do this for every marquise we set, lab-grown or natural. Visit the store and see it for yourself.
Lab-grown or natural marquise: what moves the price
Three things set the price of a marquise: carat weight, how well it is cut (ratio, bow-tie, depth), and whether it is lab-grown or natural. Origin moves the number furthest. A lab-grown marquise costs a fraction of a natural stone of the same weight and cut, and lab-grown prices have kept falling year over year. A natural marquise at 2 or 3 carats is priced for scarcity; the lab-grown equivalent is priced like a manufactured product.
Prices move, so we keep them live rather than in a guide: on the marquise engagement rings collection, and for loose stones by shape, weight and origin in the diamond search. The trade-offs are laid out in lab-grown vs natural diamonds.
Settings that suit a marquise
Marquise points chip if they are left bare, so every setting here puts metal over each tip. V-prongs cradle the points; a halo covers them with its own frame.
- Solitaire. Prongs with a V at each tip; the cleanest way to show the outline. 14K Gold Marquise Solitaire Lab-Grown Diamond Engagement Ring 71312.
- Halo. A row of small diamonds follows the outline, protects both points and adds spread. Marquise Halo Diamond Engagement Ring 43566.
- Hidden halo. The small diamonds sit under the center stone, so it reads as a solitaire from above and lit from the side. 14K Gold Marquise Hidden Halo Lab-Grown Diamond Ring 71048.
- East-west. The stone is set across the finger, so the points sit toward its sides. 14K Gold East-West Marquise Lab-Grown Diamond Engagement Ring 71622.
- Cathedral with pave. Arched shoulders lift the stone and a pave band carries diamonds down the shank. 14K Gold Marquise Cathedral Pavé Lab-Grown Diamond Engagement Ring 69649, with a 3 carat center.
All of these are in the marquise engagement rings collection, most of them in 14K gold.
Pairing a wedding band with a marquise
The question with a marquise is whether the band sits flush. If the center stone is set high, as on a cathedral or a raised solitaire, a straight band slides underneath and sits flat. If the stone sits low, the point meets the band and you need a curved band that follows the shape. An east-west marquise behaves like a straight bar, so a plain band fits it. Bring the ring in and we check the fit on the actual pieces.
Marquise accents work in bands too: the 14K Gold Marquise and Round Lab Diamond Eternity Band 70887 alternates the two shapes around the finger. Diamond bands, half and full eternity bands and bridal sets are in women's wedding rings.
How to buy a marquise ring at TraxNYC
Ring builder. The ring builder starts from a setting and lets you choose a marquise center, lab-grown or natural, in 14K or 18K yellow, white or rose gold. Built rings are made to order.
Showroom. Our store is at 64 W 47th St, New York, NY 10036, Booth F-1, in the Diamond District. Hours are Monday to Friday 11 am to 6 pm and Saturday and Sunday 12 pm to 4 pm, Eastern. Text or call 212-872-9692 before you come so a jeweler and the stones you want are at the store; details are on the showroom page.
Terms. Stock pieces can be returned within 14 calendar days of confirmed delivery in new, unworn condition, with a 5% restocking fee. Custom and personalized pieces, including ring resizing, are final sale under the refund policy. Every package ships insured, in-stock pieces usually ship in 2 to 5 business days, and every purchase includes an official appraisal. The engagement ring buying guide covers shape, carat and size in more detail.
Related shapes
If you like the length of a marquise but not the points, the oval is the nearest shape: the same elongated spread with rounded ends and no tips to protect, though an oval can show a bow-tie too. If origin is the deciding factor, the lab-grown engagement rings collection has every shape together. For all ten shapes we sell, go back to the diamond shapes overview.
